Wow! I have had an amazing experience! Where to begin.......
So, we took the bus from Uyuni to Potusi. In the guide book it said it took 5-7 hours to get there. Of course this is never right, and it took us 8 hours to get to Potusi! During the trip, at one point we had to get out so the bus could get over a particularly muddy section and then get back on the bus. Another time we had to get out of the bus because a huge fuel tanker had gone partly off the road and was blocking our way! Thankfully they had another bus waiting on the other side and we were quickly on our way again(unlike some others who had to wait till they moved it and their journey was 16 hours!!!). Crazy Bolivian roads! Only 4% of the roads here are paved and I haven`t seen one yet!
So once in Potusi we get a hostel, have dinner and early to bed. It was a long day. Potusi has about 110,000 people and it is the highest city in the world at 4000meters above sea level. Breathing is a little hard here, but only when you exert yourself. Otherwise its ok. Was nice to run into a couple London boys who were in the other jeep of our Salar tour that night. Small world.
The next day we moved hostels. The one we were at had no heating and the showers sucked, so moved to our second choice(and where Dom and Dave were staying) where they have wicked beds, heating, good breaky, good common area, and fantastic showers! Love it. That afternoon we booked ourselves in for a tour of the mines. This is where it gets interesting!
So in Potusi there is a mountain that loomes over the city called Cerro Rico, where they have been mining for over 400 years and it is still in operation with over 12,000 miners. Its a huge mountain and has 17 levels. We got picked up at about 1pm, met the rest of the group (2 Chileans, 2 Argentines, 3 English, 2 Swiss, and 1 Welsh), and went to get suited up. They gave us jackets, pants, boots, helmet and a head lamp. We looked fabulous. Then to the market where the miners go to buy their supplies in the morning. A little info on what they need and we get to buy them some gifts to give out along the way on our tour. I bough dynamite and 96% proof alcohol! They actually drink this! Crazy. Some others got them pop and coco leaves, which is about all they have while they work their 12 hour days. The miners don`t work for someone, but independantly, and sometimes in groups(1-50 people). They work for themselves so make their own hours. No work=no money.
So after shopping we drive up to the mountain and the guides give us a demonstration of the dynamite going off. We actually got to pose with a stick of dynamite, while it was lit!! I declined, but Tracy happily took advantage of the photo op. Crazy girl. It was so loud when it went off! Talk about safety hazzard. Can´t believe they can actually do this here! Crazy gringos for wanting to see this I guess. So after the dynamite, we have the customary shot of booze before we head into the mines. That day it was the anniversary of the mine we were going into, so a bunch of the miners that were there(finished work!!) were having themselves a party. They were sooooo wasted. It was crazy. Inside the mine it got hot very quickly and it was hard to breath. Very dusty, and we are over 4000 meters above sea level. Unbelievable that they work in this. Our guide actually worked in the mine from the age of 10-15. And we met one guy there that was only 14. It was quite an experience. We had to crawl on our hands and knees through narrow openings, and down very unsturdy ladders. We went down to the 5th level. At one point we got to see some miners setting explosives and then had to scramble up the ladder and down the tunnel to a safe distance, and got to hear the dynamite go off! I must admit I was pretty nervous, and it was very hard to breath. Scary. And I paid to do this!!! I we weren´t even working, just moving through the mines! This has got to be one of the hardest jobs. And our guides father is still working in the mines at the age of 68! Unbelievable.
After being in the mines for a couple hours, we finally make it back to the surface. I have never been so happy to see daylight in my life. It was a very emotional experience. One I´m not likely to repeat. Thank you!
So after the mines we got to see the processing plant, and then made arrangements to meet with the guide and the others on the tour for drinks that night. Unfortunatly, our English friend Dave has spent the day drinking with some miners and was on deaths door. We spent part of the night taking care of him(his friend had to catch the bus to La Paz), and nursing him back to health. We (Trace, Dave, me, and George, who was on the tour with Dave earlier that day) all went to get some food, and Dave went home to sleep after dinner. On our way home we ran into a guy that was on our tour with us and told us that they were at a miners party with the guide. So we followed suite, and found ourselves at a private party. There were shots going around every few minutes, and a band with trumpets and drums. We spent the rest of the night doing shot after shot and dancing with old miners!! It was fantastic. Good video footage!
Today we are chillin, and tomorrow we go to Sucre. Sounds like a great city, and will spend my birthday there. Only 3 more days of being 28!!!!! Yikes. Should be a good one. And a couple of people we have met along the way will be there too. So looks like we will make a party.
Anyways, will try to get some pics up there. No cd rom in this city either. Have loads of fantastic pics. Until then!!
Ciao ciao.
February 5, 2006
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